Early 463 heater valve
I want to avoid a massive dash strip down to replace my heater valve, ,I can get to the two hoses OK by crouching in the drivers footwell, however valve is held by one nut that looks impossible to get to unless one removes a lot, anyone done it in situ? Will start with radio removal....
Jason you are the dash and trim expert
I have lots and lots of nifty tools that might do the job. If you could take a pic if possible tools are here to perhaps do the job and you are welcome to borrow them
It must be doable one way or another
Its the joys of a g wagon. Remember your patrol?????
Thats all you need to remember as that was a spring chicken compared to your g wagon and what happened. The patrol went and the g stayed even though its old
G wagons if people like them just have something about them and you just do the work needed
To have them perfect costs money and steers some people away . A 30 year old vehicle that still drives and works ok is good in my book. Yes jobs are needed but if we owned the vehicle from new what a good car it would of been
A g wagon off road speaks for itself and also its immensly strong components
Fix the heater and buy cheap sockets so if you drop them and lose them no big deal
don't know whether this would help ?
I've not removed the complete dashboard on G yet, but have removed various parts. here are some notes:
(from memory - so may have missed some steps)
Take pictures as you go, to aid re-assembly
- place steering in straight-ahead position
- disconnect vehicle battery
- remove drivers's side, lower dash, foot-well carpet cover (with a small pointy tool, push-in, all the way,the centre pins of plastic rivets - about 6 - and then extract each rivet and try to find pins afterwards or buy some new spare rivets before you start)
- drop the fuse-panel in passenger footwell. (two 90 degree twist-lock fasteners on carpeted cover and then two Philips screws.)
- remove steering wheel boss and undo centre-nut to remove steering wheel. (no airbags until after 1994)
- remove cowling covers around steering column. there is one screw, I think, and the rest is clipped together
- remove two screws, securing wood strip above steering column
- GENTLY pull outwards the wood strip along the dash ( held by friction pins in plastic sockets on the rear)
- carefuily extract left and right air-vents on dashboard. They are held by metal springy clips, which can get lost, if not careful.
- Remove centre air-vent, by undoing the two Philips screws and then pulling outwards.
- Using the special MB pullers (abpout £7 on ebay), extract instrument binnacle and disconnect wires from rear.
- remove the glove compartment (two screws on top edge and two on lbottom edge). Pull it out, disconnecting the wire to the light.
- Pull-out the plastic cubby-tray next to the radio.
- Remove and extract the car radio (radio-release tools required)
- Remove ashtray below radio (lift up and out)
- Remove two Philips screws from top, front, edge of veneered cebtre console (where gear lever is), below radio.
- remove gaiter-trim around gear stick
- lift up leather gaiter boot of the transfer-case lever, where it attaches to the console.
- under, there, on the forward edge, you will find a 3rd Philips screw that retains the rear part of the centre-console wood panel. remove this screw using a stubby screwdriver
- lift off centre console veneered wood panel and disconnect (unplug) cables from switches on the rear.
- you will then see a number of Philips screws which secure the rest of the centre console. undo these. Two screws are under rear ashtray, so remove that first.
- remove both front seats (4 bolts on each)
- unbolt seat-belt buckles from floor and extract from rubber-band, which secures to centre console.
- extract rear air vents from centre console by sliding backwards and out.
- you can now remove lower part of centre console. this will reveal fixings for the dashboard
- I think you will find some further dashboard fixings under cover panels on the left and right sides of the dash
- You may need to remove the dashboard switch panel, by carefully lifting-off the wood trim and then removing fixing screws on metal panel beneath. Unplug the switches.
- Hopefully, you will be able to see what other fasteners need to be removed to release the dash.
I just knew there was a reason why I'd decided to make do with only 2 speeds working on my heater fan.
How about zero speeds on my new purchase lol
I have not looked yet but i am sure is a fuse and all speeds work.Or the motor is siezed or something even more bad lol
Start with the fuse. The resistors are just for speed-1 and speed-2. I had a motor fail on a 460 once, but before it did, its bearings got very noisy.
Here is some of my mechanical and electrical skills you all will be proud off
The card to tell you the fuses with my g wagon i have always used. Most numbers are the correct fuse and its desired path to the item for protection
I studied a few and thought some are wrong. The card is not for a w463 g wagon. Do they use a fuse box from something else?????
I now have the proper manual so i will compare. It did not matter when i was doing my g wagon as i cleaned every fuse holder and fitted new fuses one by one
So all the yaers i have been looking at the wrong fuse card but most seem to be the same. I have not looked at the new g wagon yet but i am sure the heater will be perfect
If not when you have done all yours Jason and its fresh in your head you can come and strip out my dash and refit it all
Remember the gear oil all over my garage floor ????????. Yes im sure you do and its only fair to do my interior lol
Only kidding i hope yours goes well and if you need a hand just ask
One small favour please. Run me through your fuel tank sender and pipe fix again. The new g wagon has a perfect gauge from full to zero and the light comes on too. I am not having that so need to fix mine. Is it just crud in the sender tube???. Could i not just suck all the shite out from sender or is it sealed
In depth post required please pal