electric anti rust system
had this coupler-Tec system fitted
as my G is rust free i am hope this system will keep it that way
I'd be interested in how you get on with this in the longer term. I've read around a bit on the efficacy of these systems and from my reading it seems the jury is out. It would be good to get info on real world experience. See you in five years 
Interesting, I thought "electric" systems in shipping were mostly based on the use of sacrificial anodes.
The system of cathodic protection requires a sacrificial anode. This can be a zinc bar electrically connected to the steel. The system is used to protect oil rigs, buried pipes and so on, but for it to work, an electric circuit is required between the steel and the anode, with an electrolyte in between (sea water, damp soil etc). Not sure how a circuit is established between one part of a vehicle body and another? It will be interesting to find out. The oid Rover P6s had a positive ground on the vehicle, which was supposed to help with reducing corrosion.
I work in the shipping industry and we use cathodic protection ALL the time on the ships: it definitely does work. As mentioned, it tends to be used in ballast tanks which are effectively wet all the time: when this ship has no cargo they are full and when there is a full cargo they are empty. The problem isn't when they are full, it is more when they are half and half as there is a lot more oxygen around for the metal to rust. I don't know how much these cathodic systems for the cars cost, but if they are under £200 or so, I'd give them the benefit of the doubt. Are there any recommended systems?......I'm looking for one for my Haflinger as it is left outside quite a lot and I only tend to use it in the winter.
Ph
BUT is The system a Cathodic system ?
We will need Adrians input to confirm what this is and how it works ? (mind you he has kept his little truck completely rust free for 20 years and i have no doubt it will remain so for the next 20. So how we monitor the performance of this gadget heaven only knows)
If this "cathodic" kit retails at three or four hundred pounds, then with scaled up production I guess car manufacturers could fit it to to all cars for less than fifty. The question therefore that has to be asked, given their rust warranties, why do they not fit them. As I said before, the jury is out.
Why do the manufacturers not fit them?.......I suppose it will have to be that they can't sell any new ones AND that most of our society's members don't want to buy cars that last for more than 20 years. Does anyone know what the average age of a car is when it is scrapped? (Not meant to be a patronising question, I don't know the answer but would be interested.....it might come up in a pub quiz one day.)
Possibly, but a comparison (particularly with MB's of a certain age) of the payouts on rust warranties versus cost of fitting these kits (if effective) would be interesting.
Having owned a 1999 W210 300TD estate I know what you mean!
.... it tends to be used in ballast tanks which are effectively wet all the time: when this ship has no cargo they are full and when there is a full cargo they are empty. The problem isn't when they are full, it is more when they are half and half as there is a lot more oxygen around for the metal to rust.....
Yes, but here one anode is immersed in the liquid (sea water) in the tank , which acts as the electolyte to complete the circuit for the necessary protective electric current to flow. I have trouble understanding how this is replicated on a car body, as essentially, the car-body is all at the same potential. Perhaps the large (stick-on?) pad shown in the photo with the electrical connection acts as some kind of electrolyte equivalent? ... but then the benefits would be localised to that area?
Once rust starts it is going only one way.Most manufacturers dont have rust issues anymore
There were blames on metal quality and paint being water based but this is not true. The paint basecoat is water based but top coat is 2 pack isocyanate which seals it
If cars were galvanised or painted really well to seal from atmosphere they would be fine
People blame our weather etc
Damp environment and its a rusts starting point. Air will rust metal but if dry its not too bad. Seal the metal from air with good paint and sealer and it will be fine
Prove it to yourselves. Dip a nail in salt water and put outside. Dip a nail in water and put outside.Dip a nail in solvent and put outside. Just roughly oil,grease or paint a nail and see what happens. Nail as in hammer not a finger or toe nail
See the effects
Anything sealed from air will not rust. People say water but it needs air to corrode. Look at cars where roads are heavily gritted and most are rotten very much
G
ian you are right i have 6 . 3 each side fitted in side the car was told will last 10 years
i have set up a test while i am back in thailand
solar trickle charger 2x mild steel plates 1 fixed by magnet to front bummper
and 1 just laying about will know in 9 months
Having seen these before on cars and using them on boats, im another who cant see that it will make much odds.
In my personal opinion your better off waxing a car and using dinitrol/ waxoyl underneath and inside all the cavities.
I'd be very cautious about using this on its own.
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I'd be interested in how you get on with this in the longer term. I've read around a bit on the efficacy of these systems and from my reading it seems the jury is out. It would be good to get info on real world experience. See you in five years
THE SHIPPING INDUSTRY USE IT A LOT
DO YOU THINK YOU WILL STILL BE AROUND THEN