G Wagen 280 GE Manual

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Anonymous
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I have been offered a MB G Wagen 280 GE SWB Petrol, "A" 1983 reg, for £1400, the seller is not sure of the miles as the speedo was broken. It has just had a service and comes with 12 MOT and 6 month tax.
I have read with interest the Buyers Advice on your Forum, very helpful. This will be the first MB I would have bought, should I look for any other specific faults with this model, and any thoughts from other owners would be appreciated. :D

Russ280
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Joined: 06.11.2003
Location: Trefonen
GWOA Groups: Members
G Wagen 280 GE Manual

I don't know G's that well (yet) but from what I have figured they have an unjustified image of being complicated (by the LR brigade I guess). Mechanically they seem pretty basic.

But at that age the killer would be RUST. I would suggest any sign of serious rot in the chassis, walk away. Mine is near perfect (C reg) and from what I can figure by looking at how mine is built/protected that should be the case.

Body rot around the rear end seems normal. Repair panels are available. Suggest bettter to buy one with visable rot than one thats been bodged.

Good Luck,
Russ

Rustbucket
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Joined: 18.12.2003
Location: Penicuik, Scotland.
G Wagen 280 GE Manual

Totally agree with Russ. The chassis on these things is industrial and well over engineered. It's made up of heavy duty box section with a wall thickness off 6mm according to the information I have. It was also injected with waxoil on the production line so no problems to look for there. What to look at are the parts that are welded on to the chassis like shock absorber mounts, spring seats and the like. As long as there is no major corrosion here you'll be fine. The rear end ( body ) as Russ says will probably have signs off rust but it's entirely up to you if you can live with it. It will also give you something to do. :lol: Check also the springs as they have a tendancy to break at the lower coil. Take someone with you to operate the steering wheel back and forth while you check the drag rod and track rod ball joints do not have excess play. Make sure the heater blower works as this is a major job to replace. Take hold of the wiper arms and see if there is any play in the bushes. Check the front discs are not too corroded and the pads are marking a good surface area especially if the truck has been layed up for any length of time. Look for any major signs of oil from the engine, gearbox, transfer box and axles after you have driven it. Check the exhaust for corrosion. Ask as many questions as you can regarding maintenance that has been carried out, although you will have to take their word on it. Feel the carpets at the front footwells, you'll probably find they are wet but point this out. That's all I can recall at the momment but I'm sure others will come in with their advice. Remember and take your overalls, get under and take your time so as you don't regret your decision. Should you find any faults this will help get the price down as well :wink:

mortinson
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Joined: 06.11.2003
Location: Old beehive, Madrid, Spain
G Wagen 280 GE Manual

Check the state of the front constant velocity (CV) joints. Sometme back you had to buy both halfshafts if you were in need of replacing them but now you can get them for € 190 each or so in Germany, but still it#s much better if they're OK.

To check them drive on to a field and engage 4WD. Turn to full lock either side and keeping it there start driving. If you hear a clackety noise coming fron the fron hubs then they are screwed.