Starter motor
Hi all
very cold morning this morning... when i tried to start my G the starter motor spun without turning the engine over.. second try it worked fine... worked OK all day... not had this issue before... is there anything i should look at? am i correct in assuming the solenoid didn't fire the starter motor into the ring gear? possibly sticking due to cold weather? can i lubricate it or am i looking at a new/recon starter motor?
all advice appreciated
Check the battery voltage firstly, being a cold day could have drained the battery if it is already old or weak. There could have been enough power to throw the starter out but not at the full force to engage into the starter ring gear. The starter would not turn unless the solenoid engaged first anyway. Starters usually give trouble at around the 70 -80,000 miles mark. I would suggest a local starter and alternator shop to refurbish this if the problem persists and, or charge the battery up and see.
A common problem with the 280 engine starter is the solenoid sticking caused by oil leaking from the rear crank shaft seal - the only way to check that is to remove it a look.
Other problems other than weak battery could be a bad earth or even a poor connection in the ignition switch failing to provide enough current to fire the solenoid. (this can be cured cheaply by incorporating a relay to power the solenoid then even a poor contact will provide enough current and save the cost of a new ignition switch)
There is a small connection block on the 280 near the brake servo, from memory its attached to the inner fender and has a flip up lid. In that are several cables two of which if shorted together will fire the starter solenoid and bypass the ignition switch - if it works well from there chances are the ignition switch is bad.
I had the same problem for years and it was intermittent - didn't want to replace the starter as 1, it had been replaced just before I bought the truck and 2, its a pia to remove it - long extension and universal joint needed to get at the top allen bolt.
Strangely in my case after removing the inlet manifold warm up regulator and all the injection bits and vacuum pipes and associated electrical bits an bobs to re-build the fuel injection system it has gone away so I'm suspecting a bad earth.
Its just a process of elimination - like most things on these trucks - good luck with the hunt!
Hi John, I have a spare starter motor but it's off of a GD300, I'm not all sure it will be compatible with the petrol engine but if it fits your welcome to it. Paul
Diesel OM617 and petrol M110 starters are not compatible.
There is no reason in the world to fit a new one, have yours reconditioned including a new solenoid and new bendix.
There is no point fitting a second-hand one unless it has a new solenoid and bendix.
It is a VERY tedious job to remove the starter from a 280GE. To make life a LOT easier remove the front propshaft first. Probably not a job for the inexperienced (no insult intended).
Eddie.
Get them to do the bendix Axel. Regular fail on M110 in my experience.
Open 13 spanner, lots of muscle and lots of patience.
John
M12 Allen Head Bolt, usually M10 Allen Key Size
MB list the Starter Motor A003 151 99 01 / 80 as £559 + VAT for a ReMan exchange option and Germany have 60 on final stocks
Shame your dealer didn't offer you the Brand New option A003 151 99 01 as they list as £141 + VAT and Germany have 12 in stock
Unusual pricing as it's normally the opposite but worth checking!
Oh well guess you are sorted now anyway?
Gav
Who dreams up this Bull!!!
Like your post on the other thread, they do give themselves a bad name!!!
If you walk into a shop and a £500 pair of shoes are marked at £50, then that's what they have to sell them to you at!!
I once got away with a £150 tent that was supposed to be 10% off but was marked up as for sale at £15
The Starter is listed as RRP of £141 + vat, if you ordered one today, then that is what they must sell you it at..simple
If MB change it next week as it is incorrect then that's OK, but both MB and the dealer have to honour that price today
End of...
they are difficult to remove and to refit, ideally you need someone with small hands
John
M12 Allen Head Bolt, usually M10 Allen Key Size
MB list the Starter Motor A003 151 99 01 / 80 as £559 + VAT for a ReMan exchange option and Germany have 60 on final stocks
Shame your dealer didn't offer you the Brand New option A003 151 99 01 as they list as £141 + VAT and Germany have 12 in stock
Unusual pricing as it's normally the opposite but worth checking!
Oh well guess you are sorted now anyway?
Gav
That's interesting. Similar thing happened to me with a radiator for a 463. However, the price difference was not that great, then.
I'd ditch the MB unit entirely.. Wosp starters are designed for race applications, considerably lighter, higher torque (sounds like a race engine spinning up!) and better built than the OEM in my experience. The same basic unit covers all of the main MB models http://www.amp-starters.co.uk/Automotive-Starter-Motors/Mercedes-Starters/c-1-599-3441/ I've bought a couple from Amp and service was exceptional!
More here http://www.wosperformance.co.uk/products/starter-motors/
One other tip - removing prop shaft will require a 14mm for bolt, 13mm for nut. Life is made immeasurably easier if you have an open ended racheting spanner set as it will reduce the job per end from about an hour to 10 minutes!)
From memory, refitting torque for the bolts is 35Nm and if you are refitting the original bolts and nuts (they should really be replaced on such a critical part!), clean them well and use medium strength locktite (you might need a little heat to remove the old ones too).
Very interesting, the WOSP starters. They seem compact and well built, particularly those with the epi-cyclic gears.
Do the electrical connections match up well with existing cables etc?
Yes as there are only 2 - solenoid +ve and earth, at most a single inline push fit coupling needed (a halford staple)
From memory M10 Capscrews?
Done properly, that means setting the right torque (50Nm is one figure I can find), but in practice as that article says it will be difficult given their location - snuck up quite tight, but not 'everything you can give it' (which is the usual mistake people make thinking that 'tighter-is-righter' when in fact stretched bolt threads [or worse stretched hole threads] mean no pre-load and consequently worse retention). Blue locktite (medium strength -don't overdo it!) if you want to be belt and braces.
Well after a freezing cold night.... the started spun without engaging and turning the engine.... tried five or six times... then put the auto into 2nd and rolled back gently on my drive... no clunks or strange noises... started then spun over engine.. battery checked and in excellent condition... .... she started ok... ran her for five mins then same happened on attempted restart.... got underneath and sprayed connections with WD40 and also on the ones Ernest T BAss kindly mentioned on the inner wing..i also gave some gentle taps on the solenoid with a nylon hammer... she seems to start ok now.... but im sure i haven't heard the last from this.... MB wants £602 for a new starter and solenoid... i suppose mine is 25 years old... seen some on ebay for about £210-270 but my solenoid is on the bottom... theirs appear to be on the top... i dont know if removing the motor and stripping it is something i can do?... never attempted it before... i dont want to be stranded in the cold weather.... am tempted to bite the bullet and buy a new one from MB and fit it myself... ive heard its a awkward job... baulking at 600quid at the mo...
what would you do?