Heater Blower Switch Replacement - b4 replacing the heater motor
Hi
I need some help with blower motor control on a 91 W463 G300D. The blower motor works intermittently for a couple of seconds when starting and then doesn't work again. I suspect, or hope its the blower controller and not the blower motor. I got a used heater blower switch from deutchland which looks in good nick. When removing the facia consol - removed the radio and the two screws just under the radio slot and can pull forward the entire facia from the bottom only. However, the heater controls section appears to be one unit with the entire front facia.
(1) Can the heater control section of the facia be seperated from the main facia ?
(2) If not, where is the top retaining screws for the entire front facia ?
This unit has no AC unit - just bog standard heating control.
New Guy.
My guess is that its much more likely to be the motor or speed controller (resistors on PCB in heater box). Not sure how they are setup on 463s, but a guide for the 460 is here http://www.clubgwagen.com/gtech.php?pageTitle=tech%20article&sid=item&tid=35
463 have the resistor pack on the bulkhead under the bonnet.. if you can get to that you can see if you have volts; that will tell you if it is the switch/pack/motor..
460 resistor pack is inside the cowling.. and you need to pull half dash and fan out to get to it.... and then the terminals corrode because they are getting wet inside the fan cowling (I had lost two speeds due to this.. bit of clean up, solder on new terminal, and slather with dinotrol/waxoyl.. and no more problems.. but have an expensive fan/motor to keep on the shelf).
Getting access to the fan switch is quite easy on a 463. You don't even need to remove the radio.
Grip the fan knob with a pair of plyers and a rag and pull it off.
Undo the big nut behind and remove it and the washer and bulb.
Remove the odments tray to rhs of the radio, having the radio out will help.
Reach through the hole and grab the rear of the switch and move to until you can see it clearly.
Try to get it out the hole, you will probably find that the wires get tight, so you need to pull the switch off the connector. The rear connector splits into two sections when it is dismantled.
Replace with the new switch and reassemble.
Be gentle when manouvering the switch boby as you can easily disturb the diff lock light bulbs.
The resistor pack is also readily accessible located on the front of the heater box. You can check all voltages by simply removing the connector plug and testing.
Super..
Thanks to all for comments. This was a great help and saved me hours of stripping out the dash unnessarily.
Thanks again guys.
Re Resistor pack!
My 463 is of similer age and resistor pack is in the heater motor, this is a swine of a job to remove, all dash has to come outm all switches, all transmission covers, panel underbonnet that controls air,then split heater in car.I hope your resistor pack is the external one which makes it much easier!
Having said that I now have a 4 speed heater, thanks to a talented TV repair man who put a new resistor in for me! Not sure if worth all the effort just to get one extra speed on fan.
I do have a brand new resistor pack for the external type if anyone wants it!
I just spent a few hours fiddling around but I have successfully replaced the blower motor and resistor pack through the air intake. Bought a whole system on eBay two years ago but didn't need it only the motor !
Like everyone else my motor was seized solid, the connections all corroded and certainly no life.
Lucky the heater matrix was working but having spent years with no motor I decided to have a go at this job. Convinced it could be done without a strip. Just removed the old motor and ripped OU the resistor after disconnecting what was left of the wiring.
Just cut back the blue/black cables and extend the red & earth cables for the motor. I used the coils off the old resistor as these were perfect, just made up a new resistor board for about £2 and re-wired the new resistor pack once waterproofed and placed it under the dash for future access if needed.
Over all any easy job, but the hardest thing was working through the air intake upside down using a mirror and a bright light but worth all the hassle.
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Thanks fcp.
A great and comprehensive article. I was hoping that I was going to avoid this lengthy dismantling process. But as you say, the only way to get to the resistors on the PCB is to stip it down.
I'll wait to see of anyone else comes back with an alternative plan on this forum. If not, looks like I'll be taking time over the Christmas break to stip down the dash.
D