Transfer box ratios and posibilty to change flange.
Hello,
I have w460 with OM605 engine and sprinter gearbox. Bought w463 axles from 350TD and transfer box from 3.6AMG. Thinking how to put in on my w460... :)
1. Wanted to ask about ratios. There is slower and faster transfer box for example:
500GE / 320 GE / G320 / G350TD - VG150/3W/0.8 750.651
230 GE / 300 GE / 250 GD / 300 GD - VG150/3W/2.1 750.652
Witch 2.1 or 0.8 ratio transfer box Is slower, onroad/offroad? :)
Data suggests 2.1 is slower maybe.
2. I got transfer box with CV joint option. Because I`m building G for heavy offroading thinking better to connect gearbox with propshaft with U joints.
How I understand I can change flange on transfer box. It is the same as VG80 or different and need to find VG150?
Maybe some technical specialist can shad some light on it.
Also, interested in info how VG150 engages difflock, who sold transfer box said that w463 has electric diff lock, is it true, or mechanical? (I have 24volt now) Maybe where on transfer case is located and how it works?
And there is servicing procedure for transfer case, what I can do before I put it on car?
Thanks,
Casper
I can answer point 2 easily enough, your other points are too deep and in need of research to answer; even Mercedes Benz technical would not entertain these questions, I feel.
I see no logic in changing the CV joints to UJ's. on the gearbox/transfer box; even if you are seriously off roading. On the contrary, I reckon it is advantages to have the CV, you get smoother drive (inherently, UJ's have a fluctuating effect on them hence, the UJ's are timed to smooth out that effect), The CV has a boot to protect the grease and inner mechanism making it better protected for fording (going through water) and muddy conditions. The UJ's, although protected has an effect of the grease being sucked out if forded when the grease is hot, increasing maintenance of the UJ; you have to grease after fording to ensure the UJ is kept well lubricated.
Point one; I am not sure on what ratios are given, I will look into this but by my understanding 2.1 output ratio would mean this is a faster speed output and 0.8 is a slower speed output ratio. Lets us take 1:1 ratio, this translates as to 1 revolution in, equals 1 revolution out,
1:0.8 ratio equals t 1 rev. in and get 0.8 rev out; this means slower output. Therefore, 1:2.1 equals to 1 rev in and get 2.1 rev as output speed.
Going on to your diff lock question, yes the diff locks are engaged by electrical switch through solenoid and vacuum diaphragms; I will email to you a link on transfer box that will give you illustrations and explanation on the transfer box. I can see in my mind that you are thinking of converting this to manual engagement.
Hi Rakesh,
Just looking through postings on the VG150, would you mind dropping me a copy of the illustration you mentioned?
Re. CV vs UJ. Agree in the main re. CV benefits; other advantages are limits to UJ's ability to cope with less than parallel flanges and large offset angles.
One thing going for them though - if you overheat a UJ, it won't fail catastrophically whereas a CV can.
Also, an overheated/ worn UJ will still get you home (and can be rebuilt) whereas a CV is effectively a sealed unit. This is a subject close to me at the moment as I consider the benefit of one vs the other in a desert (hot) race context!
There are 2 different transfer box ratios; first is for slower Gs like 300ge and 300Gd, second one is for the faster turbo diesels and V8. First box has a 1.05:1 road gear and second has 0.8:1 road gear. I'm fairly certain both have the same off-road ratio of 2.1:1.
The transfer box lock uses a vacuum to operate it, not electronics on the box, but the 463 uses an electric solenoid to operate the vacuum. so you need something to control the vacuum but that is remote to the xbox.
I think the chassis on the 463 had a different cross member to allow the driveshaft to be installed as it sits in a different position compared to the 463. Front diff also runs in opposite direction to 460
That's right Roly - the conversion of the centre diff control is pretty straightforward though, just needs electric vaccum solenoid.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-2005-BMW-E46-3-SERIES-2-0D-ELECTRIC-VACUU...
I was very fortunate to acquire the 2nd type (along with axels from G55 AMG 
).
My chassis is about to be significantly altered anyway (dual shock setup, replace [uprate] cross members) so it will all be part-and-parcel.
I`m thinking to go route with mechanical diff locking on transfer box too, like w460.
With adding third lever.
Air I`m interested to save for tyres. I had example drawing on my stolen computer how possible it through flange, but now I need to research it again. Don`t know technology how they do it on 6x6 G.
It uses vacuum not air pressure, so you could use a lever to operate. 100% mechanical
Yep, I just know some people who use air pressure to do the job, and saying that it`s better because seals is not best and vacuum don`t work perfectly. How I understand for air possible to rebuild air conditioner for example, but still it needs electric for engage clutch for work.
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