URGENT: W463 rear brake shoes shared with some MB van?
Guys,
The brake cylinder in the LHS rear wheel of my G has decided to let all the brake fluid go onto the brake shoes and these need replacement.
Unfortunately for me, MB Spain couldn't care less about the environment and they do not sell the exchange part (unlike MBUK) and the new part is € 330 + VAT.
I vaguely remember that the rear axles of the G were shares with some of the vans so I need to know which to try to source the brake pads shoes cheaply. Does anybody out there the precise model?
Cheers
contact martin by pm
he bought a new set of shoes and maybe wheel cylinders
and i dont think they were that costly
The bottom springs in the repair kit were too strong when I got them ..had to reuse the old ones.
And relining brake shoes should be easy enough normally .. just look up a friction material supplier .. we do it all the time for some brake bands on the oil equipment I work with. Not sure you could not have got away with just washing it with water.. brake fluid loves water so will go away most of the time in preference to hanging about unless it ate the glue?
I recently had rear drums changed in my G500 1999 I was told they were the same as MB Vito. if this helps anyone in future.
Kam
I recently had rear drums changed in my G500 1999 I was told they were the same as MB Vito. if this helps anyone in future.
Kam
Well I think that whoever told you was wrong! The rear drum brakes of the older Gs are similar to the T1 vans (W602) and 308 D and 310 D vans.
Some pictures of the process now happily finished:
Pain in the neck!
Since doing the rear brakes I have found that I don't have a handbrake.
If I adjust the handbrake as per the manual's instructions, I find that the car is braked all the time... if I then loosen the handbrake a then the car goes well but I have no handbrake!
The drums appear to be in perfect nick (the drums not apparently out-of-true). What am I doing wrong!
Mortinson,
it is difficult to say without seeing the actual layout and orientation, but have compared your pictures with my book and it seems that you have installed the shoes the correct way round. Anyway, here are some pointers:
1) Check that the automatic adjuster is all the way "in" on both (front and rear) sides of each individual adjuster and start again
2) Sometimes the handbrake adjusting procedure may need very small increments. The shoes should just not touch the drums with the handbrake fully released.
3) For a new installation, it is better to release the adjusters on the cables first, then adjust the clearance on the shoes by means of the "automatic" adjuster. Start with the adjuster fully in on both front and rear sides and screw both sides out by equal amounts until the correct clearance is achieved. Drive the vehicle then for some several hundred yards forwards and backwards as the adjuster works both ways. Then test the handbrake and adjust on cables by lever as required.
4) Finally, and I do not suggest that you did this but have seen others trip over in this manner, ensure that all adjustments at the wheels are made with the handbrake RELEASED.
Good luck!
ps Specs on drum inside dia/lining thickness: Normal: 260/8.70mm; Stage1: 261/9.20mm; Stage2: 262/9.7mm. Wear limit = 3.50mm
It may be worth taking some measurements whilst being there, just to double-check the obvious.
Mercfan,
Apologies for jumping in off topic, but any developments on those steering dampers, I am about/very soon going to order one from Merc Benz, I will try the motor factors first though.
Cheers,
Marcus
any developments on those steering dampers
Seems they're shut until after new year. Will continue then.
Mortinson,
it is difficult to say without seeing the actual layout and orientation, but have compared your pictures with my book and it seems that you have installed the shoes the correct way round. Anyway, here are some pointers:
1) Check that the automatic adjuster is all the way "in" on both (front and rear) sides of each individual adjuster and start again
2) Sometimes the handbrake adjusting procedure may need very small increments. The shoes should just not touch the drums with the handbrake fully released.
3) For a new installation, it is better to release the adjusters on the cables first, then adjust the clearance on the shoes by means of the "automatic" adjuster. Start with the adjuster fully in on both front and rear sides and screw both sides out by equal amounts until the correct clearance is achieved. Drive the vehicle then for some several hundred yards forwards and backwards as the adjuster works both ways. Then test the handbrake and adjust on cables by lever as required.
4) Finally, and I do not suggest that you did this but have seen others trip over in this manner, ensure that all adjustments at the wheels are made with the handbrake RELEASED.
Good luck!
ps Specs on drum inside dia/lining thickness: Normal: 260/8.70mm; Stage1: 261/9.20mm; Stage2: 262/9.7mm. Wear limit = 3.50mm
It may be worth taking some measurements whilst being there, just to double-check the obvious.
Mercfan, many thanks again for your detailed advice. I am now however inclined, after numerous tests, to suspect the handbrake cables. They do not run smoothly and must get stuck somewhere when the handbrake is released. I have therefore ordered new cables and will report back as soon as I have them changed.
Cheers for now
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Finally got my parts from Carlos Acosta: brake shoes kit (relined and reconditioned) € 76 + VAT (rather than € 330) and pair of slave cylinders @ € 49 + VAT each (rather than € 72 each). Then phoned Mercedes to order the 8 rubber grommets that prevent water from ingressing in the drums while allowing access to the automatic shoe adjuster (4x A3094210211 plus 4x A6019970986) as well as the general repair kit A6014210092. Unfortunately the latter will not be supplied until Friday so the G will have to stay for a few days in the dry dock. But in the meantime I am borrowing Dad's W210 E300 Turbodiesel... what a pleasure to drive!
Many thanks to all suggestions received