Engaging diff locks
I have been trying to engage the difflocks on my 460, but I cannot seem to get the levers to move.
I have put into 4WD and tried both with and without the clutch.
Do you pull them up and then across or just straight across?
They probably have not been used for a while, so may be seized.
I do not want to force them, so just wanted to know the correct procedure to engage them.
Thanks
check that you have oil in the resevoir.open the bonnet and its on the right hand side of the engine.sometimes the pipe underneath it perishes and drains the oil.
i think it takes standard brake fluid.
but check the club posts.
Brake fluid for sure.
They need pulled straight up .. that is why you cannot get them to work .. they are designed for LHD IMHO so it is quite a stretch and pull but it works with an over centre snap action.. go under and have a look between the gearbox and transfer box on passenger side just inside chassis rails. I guess they would seize if you left them long enough. They push on "master cylinders" filled with brake fluid from a reservoir in the engine compartment (on front of battery tray for me).
Hi if your difflocks have been without hydraulic oil (Universal dot 4+) after you have filled the reservoir with oil (just in front and below the battery tray)....when you first pull the knobs (up about 6cm) there may not be sufficient oil in the systems to dis-engage the locks when you push the knobs back down again....each system requries bleeding and each difflock needs to be exercised a few times to avoid possible damage to the differentials as a result of partial retraction of the difflock rams (a long shiny rod on each axle) if they don't shine clean them and smear them with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) even remove them and service them on the bench.... this to be done before you operate the knobs for the first time......good luck
Hi All,
Hope this post is of help to someone.
Have a 460 model 280 auto and since I bought it the front diff lock lever would not move, not even if I kissed its donkey.
Yesterday I set about solving this problem.
First pull lever in cab--- no movement.
Release blead nipple on diff lock and pull lever again...... if lever moves..... piston in diff lock is seized.Retighten bleed nipple.
Second unbolt the 4x bolts holding it onto the axle and try again.... still no movement....... sounds like an actuator problem.
This is all presuming that you have checked the fluid level and bled the system.
3/ disconnect the difflock from the relevant connections x2.
4/ bring it to bench/vise and strip it taking note of how it came apart.
5/ rip the 2x bolts holding the 2x casings together.
6/ clean all the crud off and regrease lightly. Pull the slieve/piston out of the casing .
(In my case after trying 120psi to move it and failing and not knowing any better I drilled the back of the cast casing to be able to hit the cylinder/piston free with a centre punch. It worked. Then tapped it and sealed it with a bolt and PTFE tape.
7/ Clean more crud taking care not to score the polished barrell.
8/ Replace the piston and all other assemblies in the order that you took them apart.
9/ Connect up to the hydraulic pipe and check if working.
10/ Put it all back together and go have fun testing it out.
Coffee coloured fluid in pipe....... replace it with dot4 brake fluid front and back. Just bleed it.
This sounds long and labourious but it isn't, give it a go,it will be worth it in the end................................
Regards
Mike
PS did take pictures but kids deleted them earlier, sorry.
Nice one Mike,
I need to do my rear locker on the 240 , this post has spured me on ,
cheers
Twodogs
I'm gonna print this page and keep it in the glove box for future reference!
cheers mike.

Does it take SAE80/90 ?