spherical hub
spherical hub n/s leaking on closer inspection its not the seal but there is play in the actual hub, not so on o/s any ideas ?
fucked mate, sell it
Bearing needs tightening up......easy
Bearing knackered...............bit harder
Drive shaft seal gone..........do it with the bearing
CV joint knackered..........expensive
all of above .................fucked.......sell...sell....sell cheap to Peter perfect :D
When you say leaking do you mean plain grease or is it contaminated with oil? If so check your diff oil level. Is it low?
The only way diff oil can be getting in to the sphere is past the half shaft seal(s)
I don't think the play you can feel will be related to the leak. It can only be due to wheel bearing IMHO don't try to tighten it just change it.
Or the swivel pin bearings at the top and bottom of the sphere. Again only solution change them.
To get at the half shaft seals you will need to dismantle so much that you may as well renew the wheel and swivel pin bearings anyway.
Let us know how you get on.
"tyreman" this forum did this rework earlier this year ..all is explaned on the forum ...think he had the same problem to rectify........
find out what & why soon, keep ya posted thanks
Russ no contamination just grease
Russ no contamination just grease
Good news.
It must be the wipe seal then. Or is it getting hot making the grease thin and therefore spewing out more than normal? ...........Not good news :cry:
Suggest check for heat in the hub next time you use it for any distance.
Hi All,
If its just the seal that is knackered then its an easy job to change the two rear most seals only and that is without stripping the axle end completely.
One is a paper seal and the other is a plastic wiper seal. Don't panic.
Regards,
Mike
spherical hub n/s leaking on closer inspection its not the seal but there is play in the actual hub, not so on o/s any ideas ?
With excessive wheel bearing play, is usually an indication it is time to renew bearings and seals for the hub. If, you try and re-adjust the wheel bearing, you will only find a short while latter the bearing has developed play again. If fact, upon tighening the bear, yes you take out the play but do stress the bearing roller cage. In further use after that the bearing simpily distintigrates. Therefore, there is no point to re-adjust, you have to renew.
The job takes 5.5 hrs to do each side, given that, you might as well renew the King-pin bearings together with all the seals.
Your parts list will be, the following per side: Hub inner and outter bearings, hub inner and outter seals, hub dust shield and felt seal - both, optional. King-pin bearings and core plugs, axle seal and control bush sitting inside the axle, on the outter end of it. C.V boot if split. Paper gasket for the swivel and a neo-prene seal called a Ball seal. (Do not opt for the split ball seal); that is jobs that does not require total swivel strip down. Depending on your lock nut and lock washer, these may be required, as will, your brake pad retaining pins, sometimes the old ones are so corroded or seized, it quicker to chisel the pins out and refit anew.
Good luck,
Regards,
Ah, didn't see that you have play in the hub. Lovely job ahead hee hee, hope your not worried about grease under your fingernails and everywhere else too!
Consider doing both sides at the same time as then everything will be perfect and if you do it yourself won't cost the earth and you can be sure everything is put in like it should be.
Simon's posts and photos were absolutely invaluable to me when I did mine . The man should get a medal.
Have fun.
Regards,
Mike
PS I'm no mechanic either with no special tools. So give it a go.
h
PS I'm no mechanic either with no special tools. So give it a go.
The only special tool is a socket for the hub nuts of which there are two different sizes, namely; one for the 460 chassis and another for the 463 chassis. But talented members out there have fabricated their own tool.
Regards,
Yeah, I forgot about the hub nut thingy. Thanks again to simon and his advice on a 30mm socket from Halfords and cut it down with a hacksaw/grinder that 'll do a 460 nicely.
Someone I don't know and can't remember said a few taps of a cold chisel would do on the 463 if you didn't have the correct socket. Not that I could condone such behaviour as it would be considered bad practice. (but it works)
Go for it!
Regards,
Mike
as promised update on sphericle hub, the play in the hub was indeed as rakeesh and all my G mates pointed at bearings may need replacing apart from the twat in peterborough region with and i quote fucked mate sell it , what does he know, who is he.Hub seal fitted on this three years ago by another twat i no longer have time for. one bearing he obviously couldnt get to line up correctly so it appears to have been forced in and shimed any way all sorted not fucked :lol:
All the part numbers now for this bstard job
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