280ge running problems

you say you have done the leads and filters good next check condition of the distributor and that the rubber hoses on the fuel distributor are all atattched correctly and not leaking if its not one of these check the fuel pump. Might be worth double checking the firing order of the leads.

Hello Damien,

In your reply to prwales’s thread, asking you to check the distributor cap; did you infact, check it, or just replied back, that the vehicle was running fine before hand? Please do check the cap and rotor arm.

Have you fitted the correct spark plugs, as that, meant for the M110 engine? This engine is sensitive to wrong heat range plugs. Do not fit any other than what is specified for the engine. You will find stickers to the effect, when you lift the bonnet at the bottom right side.

My personal choice is Bosch plugs, the M110 does not cope too well with Champion or NGK’s in my experience and opinion, though, those plugs are fine in their own right, they do not work well on the M110 engine. I have no doubts; there will be some one out there who will disagree with different experiences’.

You mentioned that you have changed filters, by that I can assume that you have changed the fuel filter? Double check the part number if the correct fuel filter has been supplied! If, you had used any fuel clamps during the renewal of fuel filter, had these been removed?

Check on the vacuum hose connections to the inlet manifold, the one in particular that can be unknowingly pulled off is located at the right side of the inlet manifold, as you look at the manifold from the nearside of the vehicle, looking-in. This small hose comes from the warm up regulator, mounted at the rear of engine, on the block.

If the engine hunts a lot at idle or trying hard to idle, then check on all rubber hoses that make up the idle circuit. It there are cracks in these or have been dislodged, it can make starting difficult and idle rough and can be prone to backfiring. The hoses run the track of the idle adjusting screw, attaching to the inlet manifold at its middle, pushed onto a small protruding pipe. The rest of the hoses are directly beneath the inlet manifold, it is difficult to see, but a diagnoses is easier on a running engine, where one can spray some brake cleaner in and around the inlet manifold and the rubber hoses, the idea being if there is any leakage the brake cleaner which is also combustible, will suck into the inlet manifold changing the idle tone, if this occurs, there is a definite leakage that needs attention. Take care not spray on or near any high-tension electrics!

Check the terminals on the ignition module are pushed in home.

Get the valve clearances checked and adjusted as necessary.

If this does not do it then the only other things you need to eliminate is the fuel pump relay, this also govern maximum rpm. You have mentioned that the fuel delivery has been checked. When the vehicle runs correctly, check and adjust the emissions level.

Check the green wire on the engine; this is the TDC sensor connecting to the ignition pack. Remove from the term and measure the resistance between the centre connector and the outer connector. Whilst holding the contacts on get some one else to move or twist or shake your green lead to see if there is a breakdown in signal. If all checks out then the only thing left to check is the ignition pack. Check for good earthing.

If you can provide more info. This will be helpful.

Regards,

has it back fired at all ? as it sounds like its letting too much air in, there are things to check it its back fired prior to this problem.