Steering box reconditioning
Got a quote from a company called PSR Direct in Dewsbury for £135+VAT plus delivery/collection at £24 plus any bits that need replacing. Does that sound good? It did to me.
Anyone used these guys? He said they'd done a few Gs in the past.
Hi Tom if there is any froth in the power steering reservoir after you go lock to lock a few times try changing the oil because you can get cavitation from the froth which will cause steering insensitivity.....the oil should be translucient not brown or cloudy.....
As far as prices go, this does sounds to a similar price for reconditioning s/box to a quote I got a few years ago, by another company from up North.
Why are you looking into changing?
Cheers,
slightly tangential to this does anyone know the cost of replacement pipework for the power steering on a 463?
I have just read as to why you are thinking in looking to change you s/box, well, it certainly will not help the issue, if your garage has reported excessive play in the tie rod ends, these must be attended to before, you go down the s/box route.
Check the u.j. is tight on the steering column and that the bolts securing the s/box to the chassis is tight. If you get some tight spots during your turns, it might be an idea to check out the u.j. for free play.
Are your shockabsorbers sound on the bounce test? Check in particular the rear coil springs, breaks in them are not easily noticed.
From what I can see of your control arm bushes, yes, they may be perished a tad, but I would not be overly concerned for them, they are just fine, particulary if there is no play in them aas you report.
Cheers,
slightly tangential to this does anyone know the cost of replacement pipework for the power steering on a 463?
Lots, from memory around £140.
When I actually looked closely at mine (following stupid quote for new ones) it was just surface rust. Easily wire brushed, treated and painted.
Next thought was taking them to a hydraulic hose place and getting new flexible ones made up.
I have just read as to why you are thinking in looking to change you s/box, well, it certainly will not help the issue, if your garage has reported excessive play in the tie rod ends, these must be attended to before, you go down the s/box route.
Check the u.j. is tight on the steering column and that the bolts securing the s/box to the chassis is tight. If you get some tight spots during your turns, it might be an idea to check out the u.j. for free play.
Are your shockabsorbers sound on the bounce test? Check in particular the rear coil springs, breaks in them are not easily noticed.
From what I can see of your control arm bushes, yes, they may be perished a tad, but I would not be overly concerned for them, they are just fine, particulary if there is no play in them aas you report.
Cheers,
Cheers Rakesh. We all think there is a bit of inbalance in the rear so first step will be new shocks and I'll get them to have a good look at the springs. If that doesn't solve it we'll look up front and in the order you suggest. Thanks again, Tom.
thanks Russ, those were my thoughts especially if it could be made up in stainless
Paul
Can you recondition the steering pump as well ? Has anyone done this?
Cheers Rakesh. We all think there is a bit of inbalance in the rear so first step will be new shocks and I'll get them to have a good look at the springs. If that doesn't solve it we'll look up front and in the order you suggest. Thanks again, Tom.
Change of plan. Just ordered new track rod, drag link and damper from MB :shock: following long discussion with mechanic whilst stood underneath the G on saturday. Will have a go at changing them over the easter weekend. Any tips or special tools that I'll need? It looks like it should be fairly straight forward :lol: Tom
no special tools only good eye sight and brains. you dont need a mechanic for that! dont forget to take the car to a good tracking cntre afterwards.
not kwik fit
Thanks. Will do, will wait and see if the box still needs doing afterwards though. Tom
Right, all done. Went pretty smoothly - biggest problem was getting the split-pins out withoug damaging them as only had two spare. The original damper was like a sponge. Generally much improved ride and more stable although still a little jittery. I'm going to get the steering box done too then have the tracking sorted out properly.
Had a go at getting the steering box out earlier. Couldn't free it from the steering column though. Have left it soaking in WD40 overnight, anyone got any tips?
Turns out one needs to take the bolt right out of the base of the column. Came out quite easily then...surprise surprise! Being collected tomorrow.
Returned today, weather permitting will fit this evening. Any tips? Presumably one puts it back with the wheels pointing forwards and the stearing wheel 'straight'. How do I then refill the power steering system?
Hi Clean the reservoir of any contaminants and fill it to the full mark--with the cover off open the return pipe on the steering box slightly until it weeps tighten. then run the engine and replenish the reservoir as required...lube the U/J's on the steering column (not WD40) "aerosol chain grease is one option" before you bolt it all together and make sure the steering wheel is centred to the indicator stalk cancelling position not one rotation out...NM torque values for the bolts I have if you need them..use a good quality power steering oil not ATF....
Thanks Fixwin....no torque wrench so tightening torques not much use! Is it obvious which the return pipe is?
Will get the required fluids and lubes at lunchtime. Tom
Just opened the box with the s-box in. S-box looks lovely. They've taken the arm off of the bottom and put it in a bag with the nut that fixes it in place and a couple of other bits. I'm assuming these are the parts they replaced as it's just the arm and nut that fix to the bottom of the s-box isn't it?
Hi Tom that it is the Pitman arm and castelated nut makes it more difficult because you have to align the wheels accurately and the steering wheel and run the system because you do not know the position the spigot shaft is in to put the pitman arm onto --bit of trial and error is required..the torque setting is essential for the pitman arm nut nm400 the figure..... and all the other really
Well it hasn't moved since I took the s-box out so if I put it back so everything lines up as it was I shouldn't be far off should I? I could then get it to the garage to make sure torques are correct and have the alignment done?
I'm thinking... 1. fit the box in 2. refill the p-steering fluid 3. Fit pitman arm so it suits the existing position of the track rod 4. drive to garage....slowly.
unless there are alignment marks on the input or output shafts of the s'box you will not know if the s'box is centred for equal rotation right and left.the spline on the spigot that the pitman arm attaches to may have marks or an offset spline in which case it is simple.....
No marks from what I can see. I had assumed you could keep on turning the input spigot indefinately either way and that the 'lock' on the steering was elsewhere (hadn't got as far as figuring out where though!).
Trial and error it is I guess. I can work out where 'centre' of the box is without connecting the pitman arm though can't I?
Or should I rotate the pitman arm to find the centre and then connect to the steering column with the steering wheel at centre?
Peter You are a Wizard
I believe you may have great difficulty rotating the pitman arm without the s'box being mounted and hydraulic power assisting ----have you tried to steer your G' without the power steering??once you get the box mounted and bled it should be relatively easy to get the parameters right.....
Thanks a lot Peter. Very good (and obvious!) point. The guys who did the refurb said it should be fairly straight forward as only 3 teeth on the cog (whatever that means).
Any reason to not use ATF? They said it would be OK and they're the one's providing the 'warantee' as such. Can't get hold of anything else at such short notice. Also, any idea how much I'll need?
You are, indeed, a G-wizard.
Last thing......for now.... The garage just gave me a good tip on how to centre everything up but it might involve taking the steering wheel off. Is this an easy job?
Press the plastic badge out of the centre pad of ther steering wheel and indide there is one big nut --but I think removing the steering wheel only increases your current problem as it adds another element of adjustment into something that is relatively easy when done one step at a time..1. fit the s' box bleed it to function hydraulically 2. fit the column it can only mate in one position because of the bolt and spline arrange.3.put the pitman arm on without the nut and not atached to the drag link turn the steering wheel to see the raduis travel 4. iterface it with the drag link check the steering wheel position and the road wheels straight ahead and when it looks right bolt it all together...2 people 1 hour......if in doubt!! shout
Cheers Peter. Will do.
OK...not an entirely successful evening....
Got the s/box in then realised couldn't get the Pitman arm on with the guard still attached...removed guard...(much easier to get to everything then)...bolted it up then realised couldn't get the unions for the p/s pipes on while in situ....took it out.....couldn't find the right size allen keys...swore...fitted them loosely anyway in order to find correct orientation....refitted s/box...couldn't get smaller union to reach end of pipe....swore some more....stopped!
What's the correct procedure for installing the unions? As far as I can tell you can't tighten them up fully with the s/box out of the car as they need to meet up with the pipes in the correct orientations but tightening them up in situ is going to be tough (for the smaller one especially).
think about how you removed it --and reverse the process//// my dad (rest his soul) used to say "dismantling" is easy its the "mantling" that takes the time !!!
Problem was, I didn't do the dismantling, they were attached to the s-box when I sent it away!
Anyways....success.
Fix the unions loosely to the box...install box...fit pipes loosely to unions...mark position on box/union...undo everything and remove box....fit unions in marked position and tighten them up...put it all back and hey presto (wasn't quite that straight forward but you get the picture).
Couldn't get the darn thing started after all that though so spent most of yesterday removing and cleaning plugs (not easy with G parked on 30deg incline), managed to break one of the HT leads in the process but needs a new set anyway.
Took it for a brief drive in the evening and seems much improved. Will get tracking sorted tomorrow hopefully so will hold off final report until then.
Thanks for all the help.
Dez now much improved. Still follows the road due to the large tyres but the steering is now responsive enough to compensate quickly.
I'm not sure it was worth the £700 or so in parts/reconditioning but it would have needed doing at some point and I've learnt a lot in the process.
Was considering taking it for a trip to Herts this weekend but there's a funny noise coming from the footwell.............................
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OK thanks, I'll check. Assuming there isn't, is that a fair price do you think?