230GE Head Removal
Removed the exhaust header to find a broken stud, at the back of the block. I can see some oil in the exhaust port, which I guess must be coming from the head past the valve. I have some problems with positive crankcase ventilation (i.e. lots of oil in the breather, rattling oil filler cap if undone)
It could make sense to remove the head and have the broken stud removed, also look at the valves/valve seals. Should I replace the head bolts ? what apart from the head gasket do I need ?
Andy ,
depending on your mechanical ability and the age of the engine , if you are taking the head off you may as well give it a good de-coke, regrind / lap the valves , check the valvesprings. Check the waterways in the head are all clear , i have known the to block totally on high milage 102 engines especially if the antifreeze / inhibitor has been neglected. You say the engine is breathing heavily , check the bores carefully for any sign of scoring or glazing . If the bores are reasonable just a glaze bust / hone and new rings might revive the old girl.
Parts wise ,
Headset £26.85
valve stem oil seals £11.42
Rocker cover gasket £8.50
Head bolts 10x £1.96
set of rings 4x £9.40
Sump gasket £11.08
And if you have gone this far you may as well put a new timing chain in as this was the 102 engines achillies heel
Timing chain £25.29
Happy Spannering [b] All prices from Eurocarparts
SK [/b] :lol:
Pool of oil in the exhaust port will probably be valve stem oil seals, but it could be valve guides. When you have got the head stripped down check for any side ways movement in the valves ie with the valves open about 1" if the play is excessive then new guides are in order , but as i said in earlier post this would not account for the heavy breathing , that points to rings.
SK :(
Hi Andy the symptoms you mention could be Very expensive to cure...crankcase pressure could be broken piston rings (sometimes caused by overheating) or bore wear...when you have the head off check bore wear by looking in each cylinder for a ridge 10/15mm below the top face of the block...an internal micrometer will tell you how much wear there is but if your finger nail catches on the ridge you are looking at a rebore and oversize pistons.and it can go on to the bottom end once you draw the pistons and conrods out and look at the crankshaft bearings..../nearly better to abandon the engine totally and seek a "known quantity" other ..they are about...for around the GBP 500/600 mark which is less than half the price it will cost you to rebore etc even if you strip and build yourself......
Thanks for the advice Fixwin. I'm interested in where I could find an engine with all the work done for £500-£600 pounds but I'm sure it would still involve a lot of work.
I've had a quote to do the head work including removal of a broken exhaust stud, that's 5 mins from me in london. I agree if the bores are worn and the bottom end too then it's very hard to bring myself to do it but I might just put up with the work and cost and enjoy a nearly new engine.
At the moment I've got the head undone and trying to lift the head off the block, any pointers?
Hi Andy please read your PM Private Mail
Andy ,
If all else fails :
http://www.dronsfields.com/proddetail.php?prod=102982
or
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260577260106
either way you will be mobile again.
SK
ps if you are removing the head i presume that the timing chain tensioner is removed etc , just make sure that the timing chain is kept under tension as you lift the head up past it.
Thanks for the offers. I'm OK for transport, unfortunately I can't have more than one car parked in my street because of parking permit restrictions. I'm going to prise the head off (hopefully) and take a view on the costs depending on the bore condition.
I took a link out of the timing chain because I couldn't get the upper guide pins out, so I'll be re-threading it which I'm guessing means not much can go wrong as long as I start at TDC on the flywheel and the TDC mark lined up on the cam. I will try to keep some tension in it to save it slipping of the lower cog though.
A long 6mm bolt ,deep socket ,large washer and a nut can usually be used to draw the guide rail pins out.
Happy spannering
SK
Tried the bolt and socket + heat, didn't shift. I could have removed the radiator and put a slide hammer on it, but I would like to leave the radiator in if possible and I have the tools to rivet a new chain. Kind of regretting it but it's done now.
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Thanks for the answer Steve, I can manage it but I've just finished the timing chain/tensioner and lots of other bits so I was hoping to get away with the manifold leak. Do you have any idea what the pool of oil in the exhaust port suggests ?