Brake force regulator
Does any one out their have an exploded diagram of brake force regulator on a 460, Mine was rusted solid and I had to heat it up to virtually red hot to get it apart, In the process it melted the alloy and rubber parts. I managed to get hold of an overhaul kit but no instructions on order of assembly. I have given up trying to get a replacement regulator either new or secondhand.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Pretty sure my garage put a new one on, a few years ago
Maybe Gav on here can get one?
Yes
No stock anywhere for a couple of years
Strange as same as the T1 Van so lots on the road
Rebuild the only way but its a new thing and not seen any instructions unfortunately
I think nick said he's buggered it, but bought the repair kit.
May need to source a second hand one. But here are the instructions I aggregated from the web:
It is typically the ATE unit with Mercedes part number A0024311312 (ATE 03.6513-0340.3 or similar). New complete units are often unavailable or expensive, so rebuilding with a repair kit is common.
Tools and Parts Needed
- Repair kit (e.g., from Kurth Classics or equivalents; includes piston, seals, etc., specific to A0024311312).
- Brake fluid, penetrating oil, clean rags, brake cleaner.
- Wrenches, sockets, pliers, screwdriver, possibly a vice and seal installation tools.
- For adjustment: Possibly a pressure gauge setup (dealer-level) or basic linkage adjustment tools.
Location
The regulator is mounted near/above the rear axle on the chassis, with a linkage arm connected to the axle (often via a ball joint or rod) for load sensing. Brake lines connect to it (typically 4 ports).
General Removal
- Safely raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
- Disconnect the linkage rod from the regulator lever (note position or mark for reinstallation).
- Label and disconnect the brake lines (use plugs to prevent fluid loss and contamination).
- Unbolt the regulator from its bracket.
- Remove it carefully.
Rebuilding / Overhauling
Repair kits provide new seals, piston, and sometimes other internals. Follow the kit's specific instructions (often in German/English from sellers like Kurth). General steps based on similar ATE/Wabco-style regulators:
- Disassemble: Clamp the body securely. Remove the lever/arm if attached. Carefully disassemble the piston, springs, and seals. Note the order and orientation of all parts (take photos).
- Inspect: Clean all parts with brake cleaner. Check the cylinder bore for rust, pitting, or scoring. If damaged, the unit may need replacement (or honing if minor, but this is risky).
- Replace Components: Install new seals, piston, and any other kit parts. Lubricate with brake fluid during assembly. Use any provided installation aids (e.g., conical tools for rings).
- Reassemble: Ensure everything moves freely without binding. Reattach the lever/arm.
- Bench Test (if possible): With lines plugged, apply pressure and check for leaks and proper piston movement.
Note: Some related Unimog-style valves have detailed kits with diagrams, but confirm compatibility for your W460 unit.
Reinstallation and Adjustment
- Mount the regulator and reconnect lines (torque to spec; avoid overtightening).
- Reconnect the linkage. Adjust the rod length or spring so the lever is in the correct neutral position when the vehicle is unladen (rear suspension at normal ride height). Consult a service manual for exact specs—often involves setting minimal play or using load/pressure tables.
- Bleed the entire brake system starting from the farthest point. Ensure fluid flows through the regulator.
- Road test and check for balanced braking. Adjust linkage if rear brakes lock too early/late.
Common Issues and Tips
- Seized or leaking: Often due to old seals or rust. Freeing a seized lever may involve penetrating oil and gentle prying.
- No rear brakes or poor performance: Check linkage, fluid flow through the valve, and adjustment. It can affect bleeding.
- Adjustment: The valve increases rear bias with load (axle compression moves the lever). Improper setup can cause front or rear bias issues.
- Bleed screws and lines must be free.
Resources for Detailed Instructions
- Service Manuals: Search for W460-specific brake sections (e.g., via fourbyfourclub.com, eBay, or PDF downloads). They include diagrams, torque specs, and adjustment tables.
- Repair kit seller pages (e.g., Kurth Classics) often have notes.
- Forums like Benzworld.org have W460 threads on bleeding, adjustment, and valve function.
- YouTube: Search for similar ATE load sensing valve rebuilds or W460 brake work.
If the bore is rusted or the kit doesn't restore function, source a good used unit or consider aftermarket alternatives (verify fitment and ratios, e.g., 1:3 or similar). Always prioritize safety and verify with a brake pressure test if possible.
Repair kit and other parts; https://kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/brakes/1142-mercedes-g-w460-w461-...
And this youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEDrdXb_B0w
JOIN THE GWOA
This website and forum are provided for the benefit of enthusiasts and owners of all Mercedes Benz off road vehicles, in particular the G Wagen. The costs of development, upkeep and provision of the site are met entirely by the annual subscriptions of club members. If you are using the site and are not a member of the G Wagen Owners Association please consider joining. You will have access to areas on the site that are not open to non members, to club trips and meetings and to technical assistance. In addition your contribution (only £25 annually) will help us maintain and develop our website for future users.
Who's new
- Nelson Lisboa
- Scott S
- MartynGDavies
- NZOliver
- Jrsbrace
After spending hours trawling though the internet it appears the whole world is out of stock!.