Time for new front discs & lines?
Hello people,
Having done a search and browse through here, I can't find a minimum thickness spec for the discs on the 300GE, nor can I make out any writing on the side. Does anyone known of any figures for these?
The manual states a wear limit of 13 mm (500 GE V8 27 mm) for early W463 GWagens...
I believe those cracks in a brake line are a MOT failure...
Buy a set of ss brakelines from the club, they will improve the breaking effort.
Goodrich type hose is probably 3-4 times stiffer for expansion.. so your brake pedal feels is harder and better .. while being as flexible as the rubber OEM hoses. Plus the Goodrich ones are not as permiable to water... so the water does not get into the brake fluid so quickly and so things do not rust and water does not causing boiling fluid and brake failure.
Goodrich type hoses and Cupro Nickel brakes lines should be forced onto cars by laws... OEM cheap out with rubber hoses that absorb water and steel lines that rust.
Club is good source for hoses... but I have a set of unused 463 Goodrich hoses that I need to move on.. (they are not the same as a 460 :oops: :cry: ). Cost to me was £34+delivery and I have gently tried to fit the rear one so I guess it has a few drops of fluid on it.
www.goodridge.net
Goodridge part number for 460 SS brake hose SME0801-5P
Mercedes G Wagon 463 1991> B SME0800-3 Brake hose kit
Mercedes G Wagon 460 / 461 chas 055306 / 903695 B SME0801-5 Brake hose kit
4 front + 1 front .. but my 1989 has on 2+1 lines
for a 3 hose 460 buy the 5 hose kit, fit one to rear diff lock and throw one away (rear of 463 brakes is a different shorter hose to a 460)
Used http://www.brakesint.com/ for pads, discs (do calipers too) but then saw a fleabay set of disc/pads at even cheaper prices. Their warning cables I bought seperately did not fit a 1988 with 1 hose caliper.
You are fitting new pads? ... should do with new discs.
I was impressed by the ss ones. The pedal is firmer. There are 2 on the front and 1 on the rear so three in all. I'm going to replace the standard ones on the 500 shortly.
If disc are just below .. then run them until the pads die .. no point worrying about them until you need new pads. That is when mechanics normally measure/change discs.
I ran a Citreon until the front disc cracked radially at about 170k miles with a heavy foot .. it did not fail terminally .. just made a thunk everytime the crack went into the pad under braking... there is normally a margin of safety in there and the piston do not tend to jam in the calipers which would be the other failure mode.
Replace the brake fluid every year regardless.. another should be standard OEM practice item.
Will look out lines and give you PM and photo to make sure you are happy.
35 is correct. Its easy to see under the G. It is next to the diff lock hose and at first glance (like my mechanic) you may think that tthey are both brake lines. Don't swap the wrong one :oops:
3 hoses;
1 brakes
1 diff lock
1 vent hose that ends up on left front shock absorber tower
Here are promised photos 463 Goodrich early
they are brand new really.. fronts never been used, rear has been offered up and failed to fit a 460. Never seen pressure.. few drips of brake fluid on the rear.
No. If you can unscrew the pipe from the caliper then you don't need to. Disconnect the other end first, then the entire hose rotates. If it is siezed then maybe you need to soak in wd40 first. Don't break anything or you imobilize your G
If you cannot get the short pipes off the flexi pipes then you need to take the short pipes off the caliper .. then wire brushing, "plus gas" or others lubricate, sometimes helps if you let the whole pipe+nut rotate initially (you can free nut off pipe later once nut is out of fitting). But you cannot get much force with an open spanner or even a special pipe nut spanner.. sometimes even have to makeup before you undo..
So if you fail do not keep going so you have rounded every flat.. stop.. cut the pipe off flush at caliper and use a 6 point socket to undo the pipe nut. Granted you need a new short pipe made up but you needed that already and it is far easier to make the pipe than it is to get a rounded, jammed pipe nut out of the caliper (or any other fitting).
Any back street garage should be able to make new short pipes.. just remember to take the nuts+pipe as samples. A few on here like me will have the stuff lying around and dodgy flaring tools :? .. but for all the time/expense just go to a favoured Euro friendly garage with your samples..
MB will provide ready bent steel pipes I would expect as that is what EPC shows.. steel is kind of hard to bend that well (back street garage will use copper.. which is more corrosion resistant, easy to bend but has a lower maximum pressure (so smaller safety factor but still good enough)). The right stuff to use is Cupro-Nickel brake pipes .. as strong as steel, a little harder than copper to bend but easier than steel.. but 90% of folk will ask what that is! (Cu-Ni is normal short hand). So live with copper .. it will make you smile as it is so easy to bend and get a nice finish!
.. I could start on my rant about OEMs not fitting Cu-Ni pipes and teflon lined Goodrich style hoses from factory for a few pence again.. :lol:
Mercedes sells the pipes straight and you need to bend them with the right tool (see picture). Unfortunately, I didn't have the tool but managed to bend them with loving care and a blue spirit burner (to warm the metal before bending it). It worked a treat.
Yup .. Morty is the always right reference to rescue us mere mortals with only a couple of years :wink:
Brakes... well I did spend nearly 3 years as a brake development (test) engineer/supervisor on production/industrial engineer for Lucas Girling for car brakes :) .. as a fresh sprog out of uni over 15 years ago and being a petrol/diesel/gear head:wink: Since then I have downgraded to oil industry .. better countryside/standard of living but incidences of hammer wielding employee's considerably more common :roll:
Out of curiosity, how do you arrange your G photos? By area (like brakes, axle, etc) or date or what exactly...
Basically by Model (460/461 and 463) then bodywork and others (engines, interior, exterior parts, tools, etc). Problem is that I have right now 16,557 GWagen pcitures excluding the MB press pictures and books, brochures and magazine scans so it's increasingly difficult to put logic on it all.... :roll:
Hope that you have them backed up. I have lost 3 computors over the years, taking everything with them. Crashing not stolen
Hope that you have them backed up. I have lost 3 computors over the years, taking everything with them. Crashing not stolen
Yes, I try to do a back-up copy every couple of weeks... Something I learnt after working for a multinational company for a number of years!
Good decision. May sure you have eveything to hand as the copper lines are likely to break. Put some wd40 on it today in preparation for the job.
Thanks for the pointers and info. Strange thing is it passed the MoT only last week, but that is not an item to joke around with, so they will be replaced ASAP. The MB lines are inner-steel with a rubber outer tube, while the goodridge hoses are simply steel (rubber inside I guess?) so I don't see much of a difference, but I'm still undecided.
Might go with whoever I get the discs from, once I measure them up.
Thanks for the advice! I love the summer...
btw. when changing discs, what else needs to change besides the rusty little screw that holds them in, if anything?